The main plates were sawed from 1/8" brass. To do this, I used a Deltacad template: The drawings of the plates were extracted from the main drawings, where I ascertained that it would all fit together. Then I printed the drawings to scale on a simple, inexpensive ink-jet printer. The drawings are then cut out and pasted to the 1/8" brass with spray adhesive. Then the plates were sawed out with a jewelers saw. I sawed only the outer lines, leaving the inner windows to be sawed out at a later date -- when I know the exact location of the arbors.

This technique can be used for even very small parts, since the printouts -- even from a cheap printer -- are very accurate. You can't measure a size error with a dial micrometer! I call this Poor Man's CNC since it emulates the use of a sophisticated Computer Numerical Contol machine.

After the plates were sawed out, I drilled the holes in the plates. First, I drilled the three 3/16" holes on one plate, centering on the marks in the printed Deltacad template which is glued to the plate. Then, I drilled only one hole in the other plate (it doesn't matter which) and put in a 3/16" pin through both plates, thus registering them. Then, I used the holes already drilled in on plate as guides to drill the others, clamping them together. This ensures that all three holes in both plates are perfectly aligned with each other. The plates must be firmly clamped when you drill them, or the bit will grab and do damage to the plates.

After cutting out the plates, I pin them together using a pair of 3/16" pins, and finish the cut edges of the plates with files and abrasive sticks. Finishing them together as a pair assures that they will be the same size and symmetrical to one another.

There is a decorative cope on the bottom of the plates which has a round. When making such things, it's wise to make them of such a size as can be finished with Dremel tool sanding drums. In this case, the curve in the cope is 1/2", the size of Dremel drums. Sharp edges are made so with a file.

The bottom pillars are made of 1/2" leaded brass. There are spigots cut on each end which fit the pillar holes in the plates. The ends of the pillars are drilled and tapped for 6-32 screws.

The bottom pillars are flattened on the bottom so that the plates can be firmly anchored to the bottom plate. Since gears and escapement are located on different plates, it's a necessity for the plates all to remained perfectly registered to each other.

The bottom pillars are first cut in the lathe, then transferred to the large vice on the Enco mill-drill, where they are clamped under the spigots. This vice is large and powerful, which is necessary to hold them while the flats are milled with a fly-cutter. At the same time, four through holes are drilled, which will mount the pillars to the bottom plate. The four holes are sized and chamfered, so as to receive 6-32 flat-head screws, which will do the fastening.

The top pillar is made of 3/8" brass, with similar spigots cut and 6-32 holes drilled. There are decorative tapers cut on this pillar, using the compound on the Enco 9x20 lathe. I've done this job on my Taig micro lathe, and it's much easier to do on the larger Enco 9x20 lathe.

To make the tapers, the pillar blanks are first spigoted and then drilled for 6-32 threads, but the threads are not made until the pillars are complete. Then the blanks are colored with Dykem or a felt-tip pen, and a center line is scribed with dial calipers.

Then the pillar is clamped with one end in the lathe chuck, clamped by the spigot. The other end is supported by a live center in the tailstock, which sits in the 6-32 hole in the opposite end of the spigot. (If threads had been made in this hole, the pillar would run out-of-center.)

The pillar tapers are begun by setting the compound at an approximate angle. The depth of cut is made using the lathe's cross feed, then the bit is moved forward using the lathe cross-feed. I usually cut no more than 0.010" at a time.

The idea is to gradually make the taper, and as you do, the beginning of each cut will move closer to the centerline of the pillar, marked earlier. If it looks like the narrow part of the spigot will be too thick or too thin when the pillar will be finished, it may be necessary to adjust the angle of the compound. I use this seat-of-the-pants approach successfully. I don't have a good way to set the angle of the compound on either of my lathes.

When you've reached the center line of the pillar with your taper cuts, you've finished one side. Reverse the pillar in the chuck, and make the second taper.

Todays' link:

Flycutting pillar bottoms
Marking pillars
Cutting pillars
Cutting pillars 2
Pillars finished
Bottom of plates
Plates and pillars
Plates, Deltacad template download