Then the click was filed and sanded with progressively finer silicon carbide paper down to 1200 hundred grit. I hold the click against the sandpaper with a a pegwood "handle" tapered to fit into the hole in the click. Then it's polished with Simichrome polish.

The click was blued using a heat gun, the kind used to strip paint. This is a great way to blue small parts, although there's not enough heat to blue larger or longer items. Items to be blued must be quite clean. First, they're cleaned in clock cleaning solution, then rinsed in water, then sloshed in alcohol and blotted dry with a paper towel (if you don't blot, you'll have a spotty blue.) All of the above is done while holding the item with tweezers -- fingerprints must be avoided.

The click is mounted on a brass collet with a 1/8" through hole. The collet has a shoulder cut on it, and the click is riveted to the shoulder using light hammer taps. The 1/8" hole is re-reamed to remove distortion from the riveting process.

The shoulder screw is made from 3/16" steel stock. The body of the screw is 1/8" to fit through the hole in the click collet, and made a few thou longer than the click collet is thick to permit easy action of the click on the screw. The part of the screw to be threaded is cut down to .099" to permit threading with a 3-48 die. Again, the screw is not sawed from the "mother" stock until the threads are cut. After sawing, the screw is held in a 1/8" collet in the old watchmakers lathe to finish the head. The head of the screw is made slightly rounded, using a graver, and then the screwdriver slot is cut using a Junior hacksaw. If you carefully begin the saw cut by using your thumbnail as a guide, you can very accurately center the slot on the top of the screw. The fact that the top of the head is rounded makes that easier. The screw is polished and blued, as described above.

Today's link:

Screw ready for threads.
Click and screw.
Click in place.
Click drawing.