Making a strike lever for an antique clock

John B. Shadle, CMC


This is a sight seen all too often by repairmen. A nice old antique German clock movement with a butchered strike lever. No doubt, someone had attempted to adust it by bending it, and had broken it. The part was "repaired" by butt-soldering it in a couple of places. I decided the movement was worth a new lever.

The old lever was functional enough to make a template from it, so the next step was to draw around the old part onto some paper. I sat the old part on top of a bench block, so the protuberant collet could extend through the paper and into a hole in the bench block. I made a line on the paper to mark the location of the L-hook.

The next step is to paste the drawing on some brass with some spray-on glue and to saw around the outline with a jewelers saw.

The next step is to make a square hole to mount the L-hook. A square hole provides more stability for the L-hook than a round one. But you start with a round hole and then make it square, the hole in this case being about 1/32", the thickness of the metal used to make the L-hook.

The hole is squared with a homemade four-sided cutting broach. The broach is driven into the hole until it's snug but not too snug, then tapped out from the backside in the reverse direction. I use a little brass hammer to do the tapping, to preserve the broach.


The action is repeated until there is a nice, neat, straight-sided, sharp-cornered square hole, such as you could never make with a file. The material formerly in the corners of the round hole is left as a "bloom" on the broach and as a low burr on the backside of the part, which is filed off.

Next, I turned a collet from brass which is riveted onto the lever. I sawed out a new L-hook with the jewelers saw. I made a little square tang on the bottom of the L-hook, which is riveted into the square hole just made in the new lever. No Solder Allowed!I filed a little curve on the face of the L-hook, to make it radial with the collet, just as in the original

I left the L-hook a little long, so that it could be adjusted in place on the movement. The lever works very well. I didn't make a high finish on the piece, leaving a few file marks, which is equal to the original finish on the movement parts. I would estimate that the job took about an hour and a half, which included time to take pictures.

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Copyright, John B. Shadle 2005